Whats the best way to number your car?

[kuwakuwa]

Whats up guys,

Attended my first AutoX event 2 weeks ago and had a BLAST! Thank you everyone who helped me out at the event, and especially the guys who took me along in their car at the Saturday practice!

Anyhow, I'm hooked now and want to know what everyone's take is on numbering their car.
It seems like you can get numbers that stick to your car magnetically or with static. Is one way better than the other? I think I saw a couple numbers fly off the cars during the event.
Also are there other alternatives that you guys have tried out (do it yourself sort of stuff)?

Thanks!

[Bimota Guy]

That magnetics are the easiest to use. The "statics" stick by spraying on a film of water and using a squegee. Usually used on cars which are not steel, like Corvettes.

If making your own, be aware numbers must be at least 8" tall. Trying to remember the rule on class letters, bit not sure...about 1/2 the height should be okay. All are to be in the same font and contrast with the vehicle's or the mag sheet's color. Bottom line is to ensure they are easy to read by a course worker when you zip past.

[frosty]

I'll add a few comments of my own (after working sound at the last practice).

Make sure your numbers are:
- High contrast from their background color. Even red on a blue car is hard to read. One guy had red numbers on a red car:mad: . I wanted to call in 100 db on him :D .
- Make sure only the relevent numbers are on there. One guy had "93" painted on, then had a paper "33" with another paper folded over. We went back and forth trying to figure out what his number was over the radio (as more cars are coming by my station).
- Use the same style for all numbers. Some cars would have something like "333" for their number, but only had magnetics for "33" and did the other with blue tape (which couldn't be seen as well).

There were more covered at the Novice school, but it wasn't until I worked the db station that I got a true appreciation for it.

[woodrufj]

Don't forget letters while your at it.

Pretty much every thing Frosty 'recommended' is required by the SCCA rules. Although for the most part its make them very visible to a glancing course worker.

Jay W
505/287 Dakota

[Bimota Guy]

Trying to remember the rule on class letters,
Found it... 3.7 of the 2006 Solo Rules covers "Vehicle Identification"

Class letters must be at least 4" tall and always between 25% and 75% of the height of the numbers.

Other pertinent points from the rule...
Only one set visible at a time while the vehicle is running.

You MUST use the uppercase abbreviation for the class (i.e., do NOT spell it out.)

The width of the stroke (i.e., the "lines" which make up the car's number) must be at least 1.25". For class letters it must be at least 10% of the height (e.g., 5" class letter must have a stroke of at least 5/10" = 1/2".)

All must be on both sides of the car; body panels, not windows.

[frosty]

I'd kind of like to see these rules loosely enforced for people who aren't taping a big N on yellow paper to their car.

[cshodges]

There are a couple of local autocrossers who run businesses that produce such numbers. I got mine from Shawn at http://www.proimageracing.com/.

If your car has metal doors, go with magnetics. The static cling numbers work, but they're harder to get to stay on without flying off on course.

[Andrew]

Which isn't to say magnets won't fly off the car on course. If the magnets are cold and less bendy than normal, and aren't sitting flush on the steel, they've been known to abandon their ride.

At the furthest point from grid, naturally.

The solution is to warm them up on the hood of your car, and/or in sunlight before applying them to the sides of your car.

[froggy47]

www.squierdesign.com

Where I got mine.

[MX5bob]

Which isn't to say magnets won't fly off the car on course. If the magnets are cold and less bendy than normal, and aren't sitting flush on the steel, they've been known to abandon their ride.

At the furthest point from grid, naturally.

The solution is to warm them up on the hood of your car, and/or in sunlight before applying them to the sides of your car.

Or under the hood. :)

[kuwakuwa]

Thanks for the input and the couple of PMs. I think I'm going to keep an eye on what everyone's got at the next event.

I think I'm going to settle on a method after I don't have to put the yellow N on my car. ;)

[SoJim]

One of the best ways to store your magnetics is to roll them up with the numbers/letters on the outside and put them in a tube. Then when you apply them to the car the magnetic material is curved down. Never run with the leading edge turned up, it will catch air and could leave your car. Warm it up and/or tape it down.

Static Cling is required for non-steel doors. The best way is to use static cling sheets with your numbers and class letters on one sheet. It is more expensive than individual numbers/letters, but much more dependable. Either way the static cling material must be applied with water and squeeged "dry" creating a water based adhesive surface.

I have run static cling material at speeds well into the the 70's and above.

Just as you would make sure your lug nuts are tight, make sure your numbers are secure.

Jim Ourand
former owner of Pro Image (1985 to 2005)

[froggy47]

I'd kind of like to see these rules loosely enforced for people who aren't taping a big N on yellow paper to their car.

I'd like to see them enforced, period. When I tech cars, if the numbers are not up to code they don't get a sticker.

[frosty]

I'd like to see them enforced, period. When I tech cars, if the numbers are not up to code they don't get a sticker.

Can we make you the SD-R tech guy then? :D

[MX5bob]

I'd like to see them enforced, period. When I tech cars, if the numbers are not up to code they don't get a sticker.

Related to that, anyone planning on entering the Tour or Pro Solo should be aware that numbers MUST meet the rule book's specs. Also, there are a few decals that need to be displayed also. All of that will be checked by Tech.

[woodrufj]

Related to that, anyone planning on entering the Tour or Pro Solo ... there are a few decals that need to be displayed also. All of that will be checked by Tech.I'll be bringing sheets of magnet to sell for cheap if people want to put these stickers on it.

Jay W
505/287 Dakota

[Neal]

I just went to a sign shop and bought a sheet of magnetic vinyl. I just used it as a big number plate until I decided to get handy with an exacto knife.

http://images.snapfish.com/345%3C78633%7Ffp336%3Enu%3D3238%3E883%3E739%3EWSNR CG%3D32334684%3A3%3A59nu0mrj

BTW- I bought 8" motocross #'s